Ball Python Requirements
🖤 Enclosure:
– The minimum size of the enclosure should be 40 gallon (breeder) tank or equivalent (36” x 18” footprint).
– The enclosure should be constructed with solid walls (no screen cages), have adequate top or side ventilation, and have at least three sides darkened or covered.
– The enclosure should be secure with either latching doors or a screen held on with clips/locking mechanism.
🖤 Temperature:
– The primary basking heat should be provided with a heat lamp.
– The temperature should be monitored with a reliable digital thermometer or a heat gun.
🖤 Substrate:
– The substrate provided should be safe and nontoxic as well as easy to clean.(see my preferred mix in bp care guide)
🖤 Water:
– A water dish should be provided, preferably one large enough to allow the snake to submerge.
🖤 Enrichment Items:
– There should be at least two hides (large enough for the snake to be fully enclosed) in the habitat, one on the warm end and one on the cool end.
– Other decorative items such as fake plants, climbing branches, etc are recommended.
🖤 Food:
– Ball Pythons adopted from us should be fed appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rats/mice only.
Colubrid Requirements
🖤Enclosure:
– The minimum size of the enclosure should be 40 gallon (breeder) tank or equivalent (36” x 18” footprint).
– The enclosure should be constructed with solid walls (no screen cages), have adequate top or side ventilation, and have at least three sides darkened or covered.
– The enclosure should be secure with either latching doors or a screen held on with clips/locking mechanism.
🖤Temperature:
– The primary basking heat should be provided with an under basking lamp.
– The temperature should be monitored with a reliable digital thermometer or a heat gun.
🖤Substrate:
– The substrate provided should be safe and nontoxic as well as easy to clean(see my preferred mix in care guide)
🖤Water:
– A water dish should be provided, preferably one large enough to allow the snake to submerge.
🖤Enrichment Items:
– There should be at least two hides (large enough for the snake to be fully enclosed) in the habitat, one on the warm end and one on the cool end.
– Other decorative items such as fake plants, climbing branches, etc are recommended.
🖤Food:
– Colubrid snakes adopted from us should be fed appropriately-sized frozen/thawed rats/mice only.
Bearded Dragon Requirements
🖤Enclosure:
– Minimum size of enclosure should be 40 gallon breeder or equivalent (36” x 18” footprint) for smaller Beardies; larger Beardies may require a 120 gallon+ enclosure.
– Enclosure should be constructed with solid walls (no screen cages), have adequate top or side ventilation, and have three sides darkened or covered.
– Enclosure should be secure with either latching doors or a screen held on with clips/locking mechanism.
🖤Temperature/Lighting:
– Primary basking heat should be provided from an overhead heat bulb. A daytime bulb should be used during the day to provide heat and light. Supplemental heat at night may be required from a non-light emitting bulb.
– Artificial UVB is required
– Temperature should be monitored with a reliable digital thermometer or heat gun.
🖤Substrate:
– Solid substrate that is safe and easy to clean must be used(see my preferred mix in beardie care guide)
– Particle substrates such as loose sand, dirt, or wood chips are not to be used.
– NO repticarpet (rips out nails)
🖤Enrichment Items:
– Decorative items such as basking surfaces, hiding places, fake plants, climbing branches/rocks, hammocks, etc. are recommended.
🖤Food:
– Bearded Dragons are omnivores and should be offered both plants and insects.
– All food items offered should be an appropriate size – no larger than the space between the Beardie’s eyes.
– Plant material should be provided as fresh greens, vegetables, and fruits.
– Insects- roaches, crickets, superworms, butterworms, silkworms, or hornworms. Feeder insects should not be wild-caught.
– Calcium (with D3)used 1-2x a week
-Calcium(w/o d3) used daily
– Commercial pelleted or canned “complete” diets may not be used as a primary diet staple.(no nutritional value)
Leopard Gecko Requirements
🖤Enclosure:
– Minimum size of enclosure should be 40 gallon breeder or equivalent (36” x 18” footprint)(20 gallon long for babies/juveniles)
– Enclosure should be constructed with solid walls (no screen cages), have adequate top or side ventilation, and have three sides darkened or covered.
– Enclosure should be secure with either latching doors or a screen held on with clips/locking mechanism.
🖤Temperature:
– Primary basking heat should be provided with a basking lamp.
– Temperature should be monitored with a reliable digital thermometer or heat gun.
🖤Substrate:
– Solid substrate that is safe and easy to clean must be used.(see my preferred mixx in Leo care guide)
– Particle substrates such as loose sand, dirt, or wood chips are not to be used.
– NO repticarpet(rips out nails)
🖤Water:
– A water dish should be provided that is not deep enough for the gecko to drown in.
🖤Enrichment Items:
– There should be at least three hides (large enough for the gecko to be fully enclosed) in the enclosure, one on the warm end, one on the cool end, and a humid hide should also be provided.
– Other decorative items such as fake plants, climbing branches, etc. are recommended.
🖤Food:
– Insects- roaches, crickets, superworms, butterworms, silkworms, or hornworms. Feeder insects should not be wild-caught.
– Calcium (with D3)used 1-2x a week
-Calcium(w/o d3) used daily
Crested Gecko Requirements
🖤 Enclosure:
– Minimum size should be 18x18x24” (tall enclosure, not wide — cresties are climbers!)
– Enclosure should have solid sides or glass walls, with adequate front or top ventilation.
– Three sides should be covered or darkened to reduce stress and mimic natural shelter.
– Must be secure — cresties are jumpy little escape artists. Latching doors or a tight-fitting lid with clips is a must.
🖤 Temperature:
– No basking lamp required in most homes unless your room drops below 65°F.
– Daytime temps should stay between 72–78°F.
– Nighttime temps can safely drop to 65°F.
– Temps should be monitored with a digital thermometer (no guessing).
- UVB required
🖤 Substrate:
– Use a solid, easy-to-clean substrate like paper towels or miz(see my preferred mix in crest care guide)
– If using loose substrate, it should be moisture-retentive and mold-resistant, like ABG mix or Reptisoil.
– NO loose sand, soil with fertilizers, wood chips, or repticarpet — all can cause impaction or health issues.
🖤 Water & Humidity:
– Provide a shallow water dish, cleaned and refilled daily.
– Humidity should stay between 60–80%, with a daily misting routine (ideally 2x/day).
– A hygrometer is recommended to track humidity levels.
– Cresties mostly drink water droplets off plants and decor — misting is essential.
🖤 Enrichment Items:
– Include at least three hides or dense cover areas at different heights throughout the enclosure.
– Vertical space is key — use vines, branches, cork bark, and plants to create climbing paths.
– Fake or live plants not only look good but help with humidity and enrichment.
🖤 Food & Supplements:
– Staple diet: Repashy, Pangea, or similar crested gecko meal powder
– Occasional feeder insects- roaches, crickets, superworms, butterworms, silkworms, or hornworms. Feeder insects should not be wild-caught.
– Calcium (with D3)used 1-2x a week
-Calcium(w/o d3) used daily
Veiled Chameleon Requirements
🖤 Enclosure:
– Minimum size should be: • 16x16x30” for juveniles • 24x24x48” for adults (tall enclosure is essential — they’re tree-dwellers)
– Use a screen enclosure for proper airflow.
– Must be securely closed with latches or clips — chameleons can and will escape.
– Provide plenty of vertical climbing space using branches, vines, and live plants.
🖤 Temperature & Lighting:
– Use a basking bulb + digital thermometer or heat gun to monitor temps
– UVB is non-negotiable — use a T5 HO linear UVB bulb (Reptisun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%)
• Must be mounted inside the enclosure, not blocked by mesh
🖤 Substrate:
– No substrate needed — bare bottom is easiest and safest
– Paper towels or drainage layer (for bioactive setups) are okay
🖤 Water & Humidity:
– Ideal humidity: 50–70% (can spike higher after misting)
– Mist enclosure 2–3x daily or use an automatic mister/drip system
– Chameleons do not drink from bowls — they lick droplets off leaves
– Use a hygrometer to track humidity — they need some dry-out time between mistings
🖤 Enrichment Items:
– Use a variety of branches, perches, and climbing structures from top to bottom
– Fill the enclosure with live plants (safe options: pothos, hibiscus, ficus)
– Add coverage near the top for privacy and stress reduction
– No hides needed — they prefer open but leafy space
🖤 Food & Supplements:
– Insects- roaches, crickets, superworms, butterworms, silkworms, or hornworms. Feeder insects should not be wild-caught.
– Calcium (with D3)used 1-2x a week
-Calcium(w/o d3) used daily
❗ Female Chameleon Note:
– Females lay eggs with or without a mate.
– Provide a lay bin (8–10” deep, moist soil or sand/soil mix) once she reaches ~6 months old.
– Not offering a lay bin can lead to egg-binding, which is fatal.